2011 in Review: Trip to Tokyo

This is a largely unedited email I sent to my friends on the 5^th March about my trip to Tokyo, which I had just returned from. Japan was struck by that terrible earthquake a few days later, which even affected Tokyo. I actually remember getting off the plane and thinking what to do if an earthquake struck. I realised that I would be completely clueless, so it’s a good thing that I didn’t stay a week longer.

This was the only time in my 6 month trip that I took photos. I can’t stand it when people keep taking photos of social occasions and hate the way some people can seem more obsessed with recording their lives than actually living them. However, I thought that I really couldn’t return from weird and wonderful Japan without any photos. I wrote a lot of comments under the photos, because there was a lot to write about. Ah, Tokyo, how I miss you so.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=280219&id=508828352&l=0cc1c6b0b3 

"So…… Tokyo.

In short, loved it -  everything was just fascinating, anything in Japanese just sounds so wacky, there is just so much going on, it was rich in culture - both old and new and great vibes at night. Particularly loved the youth sub-cultures (particularly Rockabilly!) which are distinctly lacking in Singapore.

Though what struck me most about Japan was how calm it was. Narita is about 90 minutes north of Tokyo by train, so it’s a rather different place. The train station in Narita seemed very ordinary and quiet. It was soothing and peaceful to stare outside of the window on the train to Tokyo as I whizzed pass the peaceful suburbs.

My guesthouse was in a lovely peaceful area called Iriya – which though being very much off the tourist trail, it is only one train stop away from Ueno park (place of the National Tokyo Museum and various Shinto shrines). It was a place that felt like the “real Japan” – a very residential area filled with small ‘mom and pop” restaurants and shops. Again, it completely defied my pre-conceptions of a bustling consumer driven Tokyo. I loved my guesthouse (Sakura Ryokan – again definitely recommend it – about £40 a night), very clean, very big (again completely defying expectations of Tokyo).

The Tokyo of your dreams lies in Shibuya – it’s here that you get the late night shoppers, crowded street and bright neon lights. Shinjuku is more of the same thing – but more compact and almost overwhelming (plus slightly seedier). Another area that is a must see for shopping (you’ll get the more affordable clothes – there’s even a 400 yen shop!!) and general Tokyo-bustle is Harajuku, additionally Harajuku park is a sight to see for the youth groups that gather on Sunday.

My hotel on the second night (and only for the second night) was a capsule hotel in Shinjuku – yes it was a capsule. The size of the capsule was fine (though it was really stuffy and hot), but though putting a way my bags was a bit of a hassle since my luggage was vastly bigger than the narrow locker I had. However, what made it worthwhile was the communal Japanese bath house, which was very soothing after a long night walking the streets of Shinjuku. You get the impression it really is a hangout joint for some of the guys there, particularly in the outside baths where people talked loudly and watched TV – making feel a bit like a local pub.

There’s a brilliant description of the baths in the Shinjuku Green Plaza Capsule hotel information leaflet (it’s a nice example of Japanese English):

“We are pleased to offer "the huge public bath" which has been one of the most preferred cultures among all kinds of Japanese people, men and women, young and old, poor or rich, for thousands of years.

We all love to soak in the hot water containing minerals, humming with our eyes half closed, which is the precious relaxing time for all of our nations. We wish that you visitors will share this bliss with us, but please remember, putting your personal towel in the bath tub is regarded as a very rude manner! Let's keep it clean and comfortable for all of us including yourself. We are sure you will love it, and you might be addicted. The only bad thing about this is that you cannot bring it home even you love it very much!”

One thing that I really found fascinating about Japan was all the adverts. I was really drawn to these Softbank ads that I kept seeing on the metro (lots of trains have these screens pumping muted adverts out to commuters). Of course I didn’t really have idea what was going on in them until I looked them up on youtube. They really are joyfully absurd.

Plus there are loads of beer ads and posters, which are often extremely simple (few gimmicks or punch-lines) and very effective (I was constantly on the look-out for Sapparo, Suntory and Kirin). They often consist of smiling attractive people drinking beer or simply just holding out a frothy filled glass). Incidentally, the beer tastes amazing in japan, since it’s usually served real cold with a large frothy head!

People told me that people don’t know any English in Japan. There is certainly some truth to this, though this wasn’t necessarily so. In Tokyo you are rarely going to find someone that speaks fluent conversational English – however most people will know words here and there… often enough to help you out. Additionally, all train stations have English maps, plus (to my surprise) there are often English announcements on the trains. I would be comfortable saying, for an English speaker, Tokyo is an easy place to get around.

However if you go to Tokyo you really should speak a bit of Japanese (if anything just to be polite). You have lots of opportunities to practice the phrases, and I found Japanese to be easier to pick up than mandarin. You can find a lot of Japanese mini-tutorials on Youtube.

On the first day the typical reactions to my Japanese were awkwardly polite wide-eyed stares. However after four days most people could understand my “A-go Ha-na-she Mas-ka”, often responding with “a little”.

Here are some phrases which I kept close at hand:

Ot– ter–ra-e: Toilet

Mi–zu: Water

A-go Ha-na-she Mas-ka : Do you speak English (very important! However, this may be a shortened impolite way of asking it)

Ee-Ye-Ri  So Gen-Des: I’m English (This phrase could be incorrect as when I said it I often got clueless stares)

Ohio Go-zie-e-mas: Good Morning

Sini–ma–sen : Excuse Me (to get someone’s attention, particularly in a restaurant, though I think it can also be used as an apology)

Si-yo-na-ra : Goodbye (though probably more accurately translates as “Farewell”)

Kon-ni-chi-wa: Good Afternoon (though pretty much a general greeting)

A-go Men-yu?: English Menu? (a lot of menus come with pictures)

Itch-chi: One

Ah-re-ga-toe Go-zie-e-mas: Thank you (I used this more than any other phrase)

Hi: Yes (though it also is used in a variety of context, as an acknowledgement similar to “okay”)

E – ey: No

Also, if you are travelling in Japan it is handy to keep a pen and paper on you at all times. Even if people can’t speak fluent English, they can be familiar with written words or the Romanisation of certain Japanese places. A pad of paper can also be rather useful for asking the price of certain things.

Additionally, if you want to travel definitely check out the Japanese National Tourism Office website (JNTO) for information videos and information on the various Volunteer Good Will Guided Tours (I went on 3 (two of which lasted 2 hours), they are mainly on the weekends and they are FREE!). [The Good Will Guides are pictured on the right]

I could really go on for ages about Tokyo (Akihabara electronics district, Muji, the genuine politeness, the neat and tidy atmosphere (though certainly not boring and clinical), Ginza, Edo-Tokyo museum, Asakusa, the fact that Monday is the tourist industry’s Sabbath, Maid Cafés, the fact that food is NOT as expensive as people say it is, credit cards are not accepted everywhere), but I think I’ve gone on long enough.

Simply, if you’ve got the time (4 or 5 nights is just about enough for Tokyo) and money, then just go! You’ll find your feet and have fun, even if you go by yourself."